March 31st, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 249
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I don't believe I'm going to miss you March...oh yea you came in like a Lion OK and sort of left like one too. The last 4 days have been very trying for me. I know that all changes tomorrow. But for today and the last 4 days? Man that was hard.



I have had this multi medium drawing since 1971. I absolutely love it. I have related to this old Lion for so many years...I am after all a Leo. And this face and posture have resonated with me since the first time I laid eyes on it. In fact, it may very well be an original. It is in an old wooden frame, under glass, and there is no way to tell how old and who the artist is without taking it out of the antique frame that it is in.

I did something catching my wave today that had me laughing out loud. I caught the first little dribble wave but thought I needed one more. So I waded back out to about knee deep. I saw a wave coming and without a second thought I shoved off like I was standing on a skateboard or snowboard and caught the wave and stood there laughing and saluting as I went all of 10 feet.

I thought Stevie O'Hara would of been proud of me if he saw that. Don't ask me why I thought of Stevie. I just did. Maybe it's because, it's something he might of tried. I said hello to Molly and chuckled as I walked up the stairs thinking, that was one way to say goodbye to March.

That's 249, only 116 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph



March 30th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 248
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I waited for the wind to switch today. I figured the onshore wind would help build the tiny swell a bit. It did. But it was just that. "A bit" bigger. I'd still call it 6 inches though. But it was a consistent 6 inches. As opposed to the last couple of days. I only waited about 15 minutes today before I caught one that felt legit.



In other words, I rode a wave the length of my board. Even though the last couple of feet was actually under water. But I was moving forward. Besides, who's going to question that? I said I went 9 feet. I think I can be trusted at this stage of the game.
I rode my wave, I saluted, I said hello to Molly, and I went home.

That's 248, only 117 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


March 29th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 247
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I guess it's safe to say that if I have surfed the biggest days in the last 247 days I have also surfed the smallest. Today and yesterday were clearly some of the smallest so far. There were two other days. The day after Thanksgiving and that day in February where I had to surf in front of the Nuke plant. But honestly? The last two days were challenging to say the least.

I started the day greeting my friend Christine and her friend as they walked by 18th street. I was heading out to what would be one of the hardest days so far. I waded out to about thigh deep and stood there waiting. I looked back towards shore after about 10 minutes and who was there watching me? Molly's mom Meighan and her Golden Retriever. We waved at each other.

And then I went back to waiting. And make no mistake about it. It's a waiting game.



That's pretty flat huh? I've always said. Give me a snowstorm any day. At least I know there's going to be surf. These days are all about "Being Patient Little Grasshopper ."

Tony Ciolfi showed up with his Golden and snapped these photos. At one point it dawned on me. The connection between the three of us. Meighan, Tony and myself all lost a loved one to cancer. My mother Eva, Tony's wife Tammy, and of course Meighan's Molly. I stood there waiting and waiting. Praying to my mom, to Tammy, and to Molly. I tried three times unsuccessfully to ride a wave the length of my board.

But one must be patient. I think I said out loud or under my breath, "Come on Molly send me something your Mommy looks cold." Just then a three wave set came. It was only 6 inches but trust me, I can catch and ride anything these days. I missed the first two and then picked up the last one.



I raised my hands claiming the small six inch mushburger. And when I looked at Meighan, she was jumping for joy as well. "Thank you Molly." If anyone walking by had seen this and didn't know what it was all about, they would of thought we all had lost our marbles. We laughed about it as the three of us headed back to our vehicles.



After my successful ride. All photos by Tony Ciolfi. Thanks Tony.

That's 247, only 118 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


March 28th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 246
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Molly's daddy Buck called me this morning. "Where are you going to surf today Ralph?" he asked. "Good question Buck, It's pretty flat out there." I was looking at the wave cam and it was as flat as it gets. "I really don't want to surf in front of the Nuke plant again. It's really hard to get a wave there, even though it's bigger."

The problem with surfing in front of the Nuke plant is the waves are so close together. It's that Lake affect. Not really easy to surf. And you have to ride a longboard to make it work. Except with the waves being so close together it's hard to fit a longboard in between the waves.

So I opted for 18th street. And it was seriously, all of 3 to 4 inches.

I was waiting a long time for that rogue 6 inch wave. A long time. I was there a good 25 minutes standing in thigh deep water, waiting for something to ride. My first attempt was a joke. I went about 5 feet before my fins hit the bottom. That was not going to do it for me. So I went back out and waited. And waited. And waited some more. Finally a solid 5 to 6 inch wave popped up on the outside sandbar. At first I thought I was seeing things. But it was a solid 6 inch wave.

I shoved off and un weighted as best I could. I glided along and saluted, then I turned slightly to keep going. I went at least 9 feet. I did it. No witnesses except a non surfing family I spoke with before I paddled out. They thought I was just going surfing. Huh?
But they watched me. I'm sure they were goofing on me as I stood there waiting for a ripple to ride. But a ripple I did ride. And this day is now in the books. Thank you.

That's 246, only 119 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


March 27th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 245
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Today was a bittersweet day for me. My youngest daughter Noelle turned 16 today.
It's hard to believe that 16 years ago today, my wife Cory and I welcomed our third child into this world. Sixteen years ago today. Wow...it seems like yesterday.



I think either little Gabby or Max took this photo.



Here we are 16 years later...we had a great day. Life is good...



I took this photo after the birthday party at the house. Noelle loves Patch. Who by the way, turned 6 months this week. Wow. Noelle is 16 and Patch is 6 months.

So why is this day bittersweet? Well, it's also my late father Gus and my late uncle
Angelo 's birthday. For many years we all celebrated all three of their birthdays. I mean what are the chances of having three members of your family with the same birthday? Not very likely. I miss my dad and his younger brother.



I hope they are having a good day in heaven.


The surf was less than a foot today. I mean it was small. And the wind was blowing
so hard it was killing what little tiny swell that was left from the previous days.
But I was determined to catch a wave for Molly (of course), and for my dad, my
uncle, and one good luck wave for Noelle. It took me a long time but I did it.

I'm not going to lie to you, I was pretty emotional. In fact, my life has been an emotional rollercoaster ride. I'm OK though. Just going through life's moments.
On the way out of the water and walking back up the stairs at 18th Street, I took
this photo. And then I really got emotional.



Knowing that Molly never got to have a Sweet Sixteen Birthday party really got to
me. I choked up with people all around me. But it also made me straighten up and move onward. I became focused again.

Oh Molly, I'm so sorry that I was feeling down today. I should of been happy all day.
I'll try to be be stronger in the days ahead. Happy Birthday Noelle, I love you.

That's 245, only 120 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


March 26th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 244
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...



I ran into Lisa McCarthy this morning at 18th Street. There was a brisk winter chill in the air and she was bundled up pretty good. She said she has been following the blog ever since I wrote about her late father Allen McCarthy. I thought about Allen as I paddled out and I thought about the whole McCarthy clan. I wondered how they were all doing. People forget that losing a loved one stays with you for a while. Long after the funeral with family and friends gathering around to show love and support.

It's the months after that slowly creep up on you. That's when your true love and support is needed. But I know that family well enough to know, that Allen and Jane raised a great loving family and I'm pretty sure they are there for each other.

After surfing so many waves yesterday. I was only going to catch one wave this morning. After all, the surf was small. So after my wave for Molly and salute, I was heading in when I stopped and paddled back out and caught one more for Allen.

He was a good man.



That's 244, only 121 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph



March 25th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 243
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I've now surfed this particular fickle peak, on our short little seacoast, for four days in a row. That's incredible when you think about it. I never surfed it with more than one other guy all four days. Today, which was the best day overall, I shared with Brian Nevins. We surfed for 2 solid hours, and never spent more than 5 minutes tops, actually sitting and talking with each other. We were simply too busy surfing.

And then to really sweeten the pot, Ed O'Connell showed up with his 500mm lens and captured the essence of this special session. It was the second time this winter where it was an all Photographer session. It was so much fun. So stoked that Ed was there.


My first ever "soul arch" captured on film. That's since 1964. Photo by Ed O'Connell.


Nevins in the fast track again. It was hard to not keep catching waves. I finally kicked out early on one wave just so I could paddle up to Brian to catch up on things. The man has been everywhere in the last few weeks. Photo by Ed O'Connell.



The "Soul Stall", looking for that elusive barrel. I never did get one. But I'm not complaining. Look for the whole gallery this weekend when I post the weekly.

That's 243, only 122 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


March 24th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 242
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I should of kept my mouth shut about the sun yesterday...it's snowing outside. Oh well.
I do know that it's not going to stick. Or rather, I'm hoping that the weathermen know what the hell they are talking about when they promise us it's not going to stick. But if it does, it will be short lived. The Winter is officially behind us. At least it is on the coast. Up in the mountains, it's a different story. Thank God. I'm planning on hitting the slopes for a fun Spring board sesh next week. Gonna catch my wave in the early AM and then head up to LOON for the day. Can't wait.



It was just me and Nick Valhouli out there this morning. We had so much fun. Poor Nick looked over at me and said,"I have 15 minuets before I need to leave for work." About a half hour later he was still out there with me. Sharing these waves. In fact, I don't think he left for another half hour after that.

Damn Surfers, always late when there's surf.

When I got out of the water I found a package sitting next to my vehicle. I had talked with a guy who was watching the surf when I first pulled up. His name was Chris. He's from Vermont. He left me a neat stocking hat from SPACECRAFT along with some cool stickers. So thanks Chris and thank you Spacecraft. The hat came in handy, because unbeknownst to me at the very moment, my own stocking hat was not in my vehicle. My wife had inadvertently brought it into the house last night.

And trust me, it was cold today. It was stocking hat weather. Thanks again Chris.

That's 242, only 123 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


March 23rd, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 241
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

The sun was shining again today. And I surfed the same break again. Only this time, I surfed it alone. I caught 14 waves and then had to leave. It was sunny and the water seemed warmer. Not sure what the water temps are. I'm guessing it's still in the high 30's and the air was around 40 something. But that sun felt warm. I saw my buddy Gary Ritchie before I paddled out. I tried to get him to join me but he had work.

I took this pic (below) before heading out...



I came back around lunch time to shoot some pics. The swell seemed bigger earlier. It's all good for me. I think I saluted Molly on my first and last wave.



I shot this Gull as it went gliding by me. Hey what can I say? I'm on a bird kick this week. There should be more surf tomorrow. And, I heard a coating of snow. Like a powdered doughnut...I hope.

That's 241, only 124 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


March 22nd, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 240
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

The sun was shining earlier today. Though it felt cold. I surfed a spot with one other guy today. Michael Sander and I shared this undisclosed reef and had a blast. It's a fickle wave for sure. But a fun little peak. We took turns taking off on these cute little peaks. I know it's hard to tell how big it was with no one out.


I took these pics before we paddled out. The pic below has a guy from the NH Environmental Department wading out to check for bacteria...



I don't want to know what he found. But you can clearly see that the waves were at least waist high. Like I said it was fun.



These birds flew by me later as I was taking photos. The good news is, they were heading North. The bad news is, they were not migratory birds. DOH!

I'm cool...more snow on the way...I'm OK...I'm fine...

That's 240, only 125 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

March 21st, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 239
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...



OK I'm looking out my office window and it's snowing. Again. Is this some kind of a cruel joke? It's only the second day of Spring! OK OK I'm not complaining (much). It looks like it won't be sticking. It's just that I had visions of the white stuff just melting away. And now this. I know there are many who love Spring snow. Hell I'm one of them. In fact, I still plan on slipping away one of these upcoming days to do some boarding before it all shuts down.

I just want to feel the warmth of Spring...

I ran into my buddy Bill Stecchi on the beach this morning. He was walking his 4 month old Springer Spaniel pup "Tucker." I was watching them from a distance as I walked back up from the ocean. It had not started snowing yet. He was so cool looking. I could see the interaction between Bill and Tucker. I love Springers.
Bill, Linda, and Jack all love the new pup. And really, what's there not to love about
a new pup?

As I was loading my board up into the Commander, two men walked by. One an older guy about 85 and the other a younger 45 ish. "Those waves are not very good." The old guy says. "What's that?" I ask. Then the younger guy chimes in. "Those waves. They don't look very good." "They're not." I say as I peel off my mitts. "So why would you surf them?" The older guy asks as he looks over the wall at the dribble surf.

"Because of this ." I say as I pulled my board back out of the Commander to show them the deck with all the writing. "See that name Molly? And the others?" I ask. They both look at the board. "I'm doing a fundraiser where I'm surfing every day for a year. Molly and the others all passed away from cancer." "God bless you" the younger guy says. "God Bless you. " I smile at him. "Molly was only 5 years old."

Then the older guy says "Why don't you do this in Florida where it's warmer?" "Because what's the big deal of surfing in warm weather year round? Where's the challenge with that? This is the Fundraiser. Here in New Hampshire. Anybody can surf year round in Florida. " The old man shook his head in agreement.

The younger guy just kept saying "God Bless you..." I walked up to the drivers door and opened it ..."And God Bless the both of you too!"

That's 239, only 126 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

March 20th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 238
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Did you all see the Full moon last night? It was impressive. I took this photo at 11PM.



OK so today is the first day of Spring. I waited until the tide backed off before driving down to get my wave. I ran into 7 people I know at the beach. Starting Sarah and her dog Kinga right before I paddled out at 18th Street. I caught my wave and rode it for quite a distance. I looked up at the Wall and saw two people waving at me. As I walked back up the beach I saw my fellow Marine Corps Vet buddy Jimmy Norcross (who was actually flying a kite). Then as I got closer to Molly's name on the wall I saw that the two people were Chris Sullivan and his daughter Molly.

Then as I walked up the stairs Jamie and Cathy Sullivan walked by. I introduced the Sullivans to the Sullivans and then I thought to myself. This would never happen to me. Not with my last name. I laughed about it. Life can be funny.


Speaking of funny. Here's my son Max on the last day of Spring Break from College.
In his lap is our young 5 month old GSP Patch. Those two love each other.

That's 238, only 127 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

March 19th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 237
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

The warmer the weather the more people come out. I have found myself slipping in and out of the ocean without raising a single eyebrow the last few days. Maybe it really is behind me. Maybe this winter is ebbing like the tide. Maybe...just maybe, it is safe to start looking at my 4/3 again...(with the hood attached of course).

So it looks like "K-Daffy Duck" is in trouble (again). The UN with the United States Navy leading the way is unleashing a Tom-a-Hawk missile party on his Air Defense systems as I write this. Once again, we watch in a bizarre fascination, as those ominous missiles are launched off those Navy Ships for targets in the black night.



And me? I rode my wave for Molly, saluted, and went about my day. That K-Daffy he's something else.

That's 237, only 128 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph



March 18th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 236
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

"You made it! It's all Sunshine and Buttercups from this point on." Naomi said to me
at 18th Street as I stood there talking with her and Josh Bellman this afternoon.



"Sunshine and Buttercups? I like it!" I said.

Of course, I'm not about to believe that I am 100% out of the woods just yet. 10 years ago, when I did this the first time, I seem to recall some nasty days right into April. Nah, I'm not about to accept the fact that the winter is now behind me.

Though today and yesterday certainly feels like that.

I was actually warm in my 5/4/3. Or rather warm standing on the beach with it on. The water is still cold. That's one thing I do know for sure. The snow may be melting, but that water is still freaking cold. It will be a while before that warms up. I caught another long ride today. I saluted Molly and said hello to her name on the Wall.

And you know what?.... It felt like sunshine and buttercups.

Except for the bacteria laden disks all over the beach. In fact, tomorrow at 8AM from North Beach in North Hampton to the Wall at Hampton all the local surfers and Non surfers are going to lend a hand to clean the beach up. PLEASE HELP OUR LOCAL SURFRIDER FOUNDATION and OTHER BEACH LOVING INDIVIDUALS TO CLEAN THIS MESS UP. Saturday, March 19, 2011 at 8:00 AM at the WALL in front of Cinnamon Rainbows and across from the Beach Plum in North Hampton. Thank you.

That's 236, only 129 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


March 17th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 235
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...



I grew up never paying much attention to this day and holiday. I am after all 100% Italian. Then I got married, and my wife is part Irish and our three kids have Irish in them. So for the last 24 years I've had to pay attention to this day.

But thinking about the Rowlees today. Buck, Meighan, Molly, and Kieran. Clearly there's some Irish blood in that Happy Family. And really, "Molly" is such a cool Irish name. I couldn't help but think how they must of all celebrated this day.

As I paddled out on this 235th day, I swear the water looked like green beer. Is that possible? Or am I seeing things? Gotta be the latter. So I caught my greenish wave in the 2 foot green slop and rode it so far...I saluted all the Rowlees.

Buck, Meighan, Molly, and Kieran...and then I saluted my family....and the wave kept going... so I gave one BIG Salute to all my Irish friends. Even the jerks.
What a wave! What a day!

HAPPY St PATTY'S DAY MOLLY!

That's 235, only 130 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

March 16th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 234
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

Remember how when you were young, and your mother never let you play in the rain? And then if you grew up to be a surfer, and you were headed off to go for a surf and it was raining, how that same mother would question you, "Why on earth would you surf in the rain?" And you always answered "Why are you afraid I might get wet?"

Funny how mothers worry. I bring this up because, I had a dream about my late mother last night. And as I hit the surf in the rain today, I thought about those days.
Moms worry. And let me tell you, dads do too. All parents worry about their kids. My kids will be 21, 20, and 16 in a few months. I worry about each one.

That's 234, only 131 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


March 15th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 233
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

There were huge empty Clam shells on the beach this afternoon. And Gulls with big full stomachs were milling around. I hope they didn't ingest any of the bacteria laden disks that had washed up on the beach this past weekend. I joked with the Gulls
about their status. They just looked at me and scurried off.

The water was bumpy out there. Messy and sloppy, but more than enough to catch
my wave. I was thinking as I sat out there this afternoon. I have surfed the Biggest,
the best, the crappiest, and the absolute worse these last 233 days. And who knows what these next 132 days will bring? Certainly not me.

I let Molly know that I'm getting closer as I touched her name at 18th Street.

That's 233, only 132 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


March 14th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 232
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I woke up this morning not feeling too bad. "Hey I'm not that sore!" I yelled out to anyone who would bother listening. "Dad why would you be sore, you didn't really
do anything out there? You skated so slow!" My youngest Noelle yelled back.



It's true. I was not that fast. But then again, I don't believe I was that slow either.
That's me (above) with the puck. Photo by Ed O'Connell.


Look how wide open I was here. Center that puck and I would of tapped it in...
Photo by Ed O'Connell.

I actually got a shot on net. Though Cleon gloved it. Foiled. My big chance foiled by Cleon Daskalakas. I guess I can't be that bummed. He is after all an NHL goaltender who played 3 seasons with the Bruins. I was happy I got the shot off.

The Bruins basically toyed with us out there. They let us skate around and have fun, but whenever they wanted to, they would pass the puck around like we were standing still. And then they would score at will. Thank God there was no checking or slap shots allowed. They really would of beat us bad. And I do mean beat.

Hey we're surfers. Take those same Bruins and put em in the ocean with us. Ahhh you see, now who's the Big Bad Asses? Damn straight boys! I laughed about that scenario today as I paddled out and caught my wave at 18th Street. When I touched Molly's name after my wave, I let her know how everyone was talking about her at the game.

The highlights for me was seeing Kenny Linseman skate with his two kids. Kyle and Holly. All three scored a goal. That was neat to see. And then watching Buck score on a penalty shot. That was classic.


Buck scored on this penalty shot. Photo by Ed O'Connell.

It was so much fun. And everyone who came had a good time. We raised some more money for the Molly fund and then we all went to Margaritas for the after hours party.

Special thanks to all the friends and loved ones who helped out. You guys are the best. You truly shine in our community. And Molly was smiling down all of you who volunteered, and all of you who came to this fun event.



That's 232, only 133 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


March 13th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 231
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

This was one of those days where I really needed to pace myself. Why? Well, I surfed some good sized waves yesterday and had quite the workout. This morning the Surf was still there. In fact, if anything, it was the same size and maybe bigger. I ended up surfing a break that put me through a vigorous workout. Still, I caught a handful of waves and completed what I needed to do. But I still paid my dues out there.



This was the Wall this morning. There are two guys out. Can you see them? The reason I needed to pace myself was, at 1:00PM I was going to skate in a charity Hockey game against the Boston Bruins Alumni. This was for the MOLLY ROWLEE Fund. I skated with the SURFERS. It was fun skating with all my surf buddies/hockey players. While I did nothing to really help my team, it was still fun being part of it all.



I know now, that my hockey days are behind me. But I had fun skating with Molly's dad Buck and all the other surfers. It was a good community outing.


When I got home, I drove down the street and snapped this pic. My Hockey Days may be behind me, but my surfing days are still front and center

That's 231, only 134 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

March 12th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 230
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

The ocean was angry today. Our ocean was pulsing with a strong head high plus swell. I should of surfed one of the pointbreaks and not dealt with the relentless sets pounding my head into oblivion. I got the full on ice cream headaches today.
I took a pounding and then some. But I kept going back for more. Man I'm stupid.



That's me about to enter the arena. March 12, 2011. Photo by Ed O'Connell.



I was trying to set up for a little barrel action. March 12, 2011. Photo by Ed O'Connell.



Not really acting my age here. March 12, 2011. Photo by Ed O'Connell.



Hand salute...ready two. I'm outta here! March 12, 2011. Photo by Ed O'Connell.

HOPE YOU CAN MAKE THE HOCKEY GAME TOMORROW! Should be a blast!
The Surfers vs The Bruins Alumni...

That's 230, only 135 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

March 11th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 229
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

The irony of this day does not escape me. Here I am dealing with the ocean everyday and more specifically, the surf. The waves are a big part of what this Year Long Fund Raiser is all about. And like most of you, I awoke to the news of the terrible tragedy in Japan. Watching another Tsunami take hundreds of lives again for the second time since December 2004 was numbing. My heart was breaking knowing that so many human beings, pets, and wildlife lost their lives due to this devastating earthquake.

I left my home early this morning to go and catch my wave because I wanted to see how this day would pan out. The talks of the Tsunami hitting the islands and our very mainland made me uneasy. I have too many friends spread out all over this Globe, and quite frankly, I was deeply concerned. Thank God all of my friends were safe.

This was the foggy scene this morning at the beach.


It was strange being in the ocean after watching the Tsunami footage. That coupled with the fact that I could not see land from where I was sitting on my board gave cause to an eerie feeling. I caught my wave out of that deep fog bank and went right to the beach. A One and Done.



That grayish white wall behind me is the ocean. On this morning March 11th, 2011.
God bless those souls who died today.

That's 229, only 136 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

March 10th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 228
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I see that more inclement weather is headed our way. Bring it on. I'm ready. Rain, sleet, snow...whatever. The surf today was bigger than yesterday. There should be
be good surf these next couple of days. If I were to guess, I'd say Saturday could be nice. Sunny with clean offshores. Today was nasty though. As nasty as my cold.



Like my hat? Ha! Like I care what I look like on days like today.

I saw a person at this spot run into the water and dive in. Without a wetsuit. And I had a witness with me. My friend Peter Tilton was walking this stretch of beach when it happened. He stopped to say hello and we both watched this person run into the water and dive in. Could not tell if it was a man or woman. But I do know there was NO wetsuit or surfboard involved. You never know what you're gonna see out there.

I went out and caught 3 waves. Saluted Lil Miss Molly and then headed home.

That's 228, only 137 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


March 9th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 227
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I saw Billy Ritchie drive by today as I was getting my mitts on. I gave him a long salute and he returned the salute with one of his own. The surf was choppy but clearly ridable. In fact, I was almost giddy when I saw that there was still a solid 2' swell hanging around. I didn't mind the choppy conditions. I was more than happy to have the swell still be there so I could get my "One and Done!" Which is what I did.

As I came out of the water Hannah Vokey pulled up and snapped a couple of pics. She was still buzzing over the waves she got the day before. Funny how a good ride and good surf session can stay with you. I'm still thinking about the sesh with Buck two days ago. And the waves I shared with my friends yesterday.

But today, I was alone. That's OK. I enjoy surfing alone. You can get a lot done in your mind, by time spent by yourself in the ocean.


Connecting with Molly. March 9th, 2011. Photo by Hannah Vokey.

That's 227, only 138 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

March 8th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 226
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I suppose it's only a matter of time before I get to surf with every local surfer I know. If I'm surfing 365 consecutive Days, odds are, I will eventually get to surf with everyone I know (locally). Today I got to surf with several friends and two of which I have not yet surfed with yet since I started this Year Long Undertaking. I surfed with Kai Nichols, Kenny Linseman, Michael Sander and the two guys I have not yet surfed with this year. Anthony Ciolfi and Stan Bocko.

The irony here is, Tony lost his wife to cancer a few years ago and Stan lost his brother to cancer around the same time. Cancer's long reach touches us all. We shared some waves and some laughs. I took this photo as I was leaving. It's just Tony and Stan out there. Sharing waves, sharing laughs, and maybe a few tears.




That's 226, only 139 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

March 7th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 225
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

OK there's no hiding the fact that I've been sick with a head and chest cold the last few days. Those of you who follow this blog know this. This morning was something else though. I woke up with a Migraine headache. If you've ever had a Migraine, you know exactly what I'm talking about. It was crippling. I was stunned that my head cold had turned up a few notches with the addition of this Migraine. I'm telling you, my head was splitting. Having a cold is one thing, having a Migraine on top of that, was something else.

I woke up at 5:00AM with the Migraine...I could not get out of bed. I went back to sleep and didn't get up until 10AM. At one point after taking Tylenol, I was finally able to function. I called Buck (Molly's dad) because I knew the surf had come up and I was going to surf a certain break that Buck loves to surf. He told me he was too busy with work, but wished me the best.

He knew how sick I was.



So I drove off and pulled up at this remote surf break. It looked big and cold. And there was NO ONE out. I was alone. I was just about to enter the water when I heard someone call my name. It was Buck! He was running down the beach with his board. He must of hung up the phone, and then thought all of two seconds, before he
decided to join me. I felt relieved and happy at the same time.

He told me the reason he decided to join me was because he wanted to surf so bad. But I think it was deeper than that. I think that Buck came because of the true friend and loving person that he is. He just didn't want me to surf alone as sick as I was. Especially in big waves. The surf session with Buck was so special. The highlight for me was catching a nice wave and saluting his beloved Lil girl Molly with Buck watching, and when I kicked out of my wave, there was Buck on a wave right behind me doing a big ole cutback. It was great. We stayed out for about an hour. The wind was wailing and it was cold. I saw Buck get another wave that went on for about 200 yards or more.

Surfing with Molly's daddy in those conditions was something that I won't ever forget.




Me and Buck after our session. I love you Buck! I love your whole family. Thank you for being such a good friend. Photo By Jonathan.

That's 225, only 140 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

March 6th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 224
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

As sick as I am today, one might think, that I would at the very least, perform one of my cookie cutter "One and Done" sessions. One might think that. But then you would be wrong. Not only am I sick, but I'm also not very bright. I went back out for 3 more waves at 18th Street this afternoon after catching my wave for Molly.

I was out there in the chest high surf getting battered by sets and laughing to myself.

I thought about the times when I was a young "Gremmie" (this is before Groms) and how whenever I got a winter cold, I would convince my mother that if I were allowed to go surfing in the winter, my cold would go away. She never really believed me but would let me go because she loved me so much.



My mother's name "Eva Fatello " is under Molly's name. She died of cancer in 2007. This is a photo of my brother John and I at my mom's 80th Birthday party. My wife
Cory took the photo.

One of those extra waves today was for my Mom. Maybe my cold will go away tonight.

That's 224, only 141 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

March 5th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 223
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I woke up this morning with a terrible head cold. I felt miserable. In fact, after I let the dog out and fed him at 6AM, I went back to bed. I didn't get up until after 8AM. I wanted to stay in bed all day. Then I thought about what it must of been like for Molly on some days. Talk about not feeling well. Anyone who's had to deal with cancer will attest. There are some miserable days. I felt embarrassed feeling like this. I could hear my inner voice scolding me. "How dare you complain. Are you kidding me? Snap out of it Ralph. Suck it up and get out there!"



I went down to the ocean and caught my wave. And I stopped complaining.

I surfed with Johnny Reynolds and Tom Shapiro. There were some fun waves coming through. As sick as I was, I went back out and caught a few more. Then I came home. Sorry for being a woose today Molly. It won't happen again. I promise.


I snapped a few pics of Johnny and Tom after my session. I couldn't resist this pic.

That's 223, only 142 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


March 4th, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 222
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

I have become, a master of sorts, at riding non-waves. Not exactly something I should be either proud of, or boasting about. This did occur to me as I looked at the 1/2 to 1' dribble I had to surf today. I can look at a flat ocean, and see something to ride. Where 90% of the Surfers I know, would sneer and balk at the mush I had to ride today, I can see that silver lining. I'd be in trouble if I didn't see it.

You will never hear me complain about two foot surf again.

Today was one of three times where the same number appears in the day. Day 111, Day 222 and finally Day 333. I'm getting closer. I thought that today would be special because of that. After catching my wave for Molly today, I went for a walk with my youngest daughter Noelle. It became special after all.



Noelle will be turning 16 in a couple weeks. Our baby girl is growing up.

That's 222, only 143 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

March 3rd, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 221
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

There's something special about catching one wave and leaving. And honestly? I don't know where or when it started, but I more than likely felt this way 10 years ago, when I first did this. I don't know, there's just something special about my "One and Done" days. Today, I had to fight the urge to go back out to catch one more. I guess I really am a hardcore surfer after all.



I mean, why would I want to go back out when the surf is a weak one foot?

The answer is simple. Because I'm a surfer. Surfers want to surf. Whether or not it's ten feet or one foot. We all want more. And I think that's why the "One and Done's" are so special. It's that automatic urge to turn around and head back out. There are some days when I simply can't afford to do that. I suppose, I could of went back out for one more today. But then, that one wave I caught, would not be that special.

Am I making any sense here? Sometimes I wonder if I do. The bottom line? Oh that's easy. Surfing is fun. I was having fun.



But not as much fun as my young dog "Patch" did later in the day.

That's 221, only 144 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph

March 2nd, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 220
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

You would think that after 220 days, I would have this thing down. I thought that today would be a no brainer "One and Done" day, you know, no fuss no muss. Easy in and easy out. No such luck. In fact, it was anything but. I wish I had a video of my clumsy attempt at riding a wave today. But alas my friends, all I have are these words.

Trust me, there was nothing photogenic about today's surf session.

I went to a local point break, that has a clear and safe paddle out. The surf was knee to thigh high. I was expecting to paddle out, and not get wet above the waist. However, the surf did not appear to be the same surf I had been watching just a few minutes earlier. There were actually bigger waves coming through.

Still, I was pretty confident that I had this. Just spin and catch a wave and then be on with my day. Looked good on paper. The first wave came through and it looked to be almost waist high. I spun Big Black around and did a one handed paddle. I caught the wave with ease. But as I went to stand up, the board dropped about a foot and I went down on one knee. Losing my balance I rolled forward off my board and then went upside down and under the water. My board went to the beach. After all, I was NOT wearing a leash.

I popped up laughing and embarrassed. "Are you kidding me?" I said out loud.

So I paddled back out and tried it again. This time I was able to catch a wave, stand up and salute, and then ride it all the way in. That's how a "'One and Done" is supposed to be done. I AM A KOOK.

That's 220, only 145 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph


March 1st, 2011 -July 26, 2011 Day 219
At Least One Wave, Every Day, For 365 Consecutive Days...

So much for the surf hanging around. Oh well. The head high and overhead sets that were pouring in late in the day yesterday had left by early morning. That was a quick swell. Just as well. I've got so many things to do today.

Ed showed up at 10th Street and snapped a few pics of me as I slid by...
3-1-2011 Photo by Ed O'Connell

The tide dropped as quickly as the swell. I was in and out in less than 20 minutes....
3-1-2011 Photo by Ed O'Connell

There were lefts and rights. 3-1-2011 Photo by Ed O'Connell

There were some fun longboarding moments. 3-1-2011 Photo by Ed O'Connell

I ended with this salute. If I look a little stiff here, it's because I am. I skated for the first time in 9 years last night. I found out that I'm not as fast, or as agile, as I thought I would be. That old saying about "It's like riding a bike..." does not really apply to Hockey. Still, I had fun skating with the SURFERS. Not sure how it will be skating against the BRUINS. But hey, it's for Charity. The same charity I am surfing for.
The MOLLY ROWLEE Fund. Photo by Ed O'Connell

That's 219, only 146 more to go. I'll be back tomorrow.

Surfing Heals All Wounds...

Ralph